Northern Sicily in the Shoulder Seasons
We’ve spent three seasons in Northern Sicily so far, and without a doubt, we much prefer the shoulder seasons. Compared to the peak summer season, there are fewer crowds with the added benefits of mild to warm temperatures perfect for beach days and all-day hikes (even in the afternoon heat), a full calendar of festivals, and a more laid-back atmosphere.
Spring
Much like our trip to Chile, I loved coming back to Sicily in the Spring and watching the island come to life. Everywhere I looked, there were new sights and smells—flowers blooming, fresh desserts being prepared for the Easter holiday, and adorable baby animals wobbling around, trying to find their footing.
Since it’s a transition from the wetter winter season, everything was lush and green. I often stopped to admire the farmers as they prepared their fields for the upcoming growing season, which was a glimpse into our hopefully not-so-distant future.
Weather in Spring
March was the coldest month of the shoulder seasons, with more rainy days and temperatures averaging in the mid-teens. Nights in the mountains around Castelbuono sometimes dropped to the low teens. The silver lining? We didn’t have to contend with any crowds.
By April, the weather started to warm up, with less rain and fields bursting with colour as rows of beautiful flowers bloomed. It was the perfect time to enjoy the island’s natural beauty.
By mid-May, we were treated to more sunny days, with temperatures climbing into the low 20s. As the sea temperatures rose, the once-empty beaches of March began to fill up with beachgoers, signaling the start of summer.
Autumn
As summer holidays came to an end and children returned to school, the crowds thinned out, making autumn the perfect time to visit the beach or explore the charming, narrow streets of Cefalù, a popular seaside town just 30 minutes from Castelbuono.
Autumn is also a busy time for farmers in Sicily, as they begin harvesting grapes, olives, nuts, and more. Many also head into the Madonie Mountains for mushroom hunting. For food lovers, it’s an exciting season filled with local food festivals—definitely a great time to indulge in some authentic Sicilian flavours!
Weather in Autumn
September is a transitional month from summer to fall, with plenty of days still hovering in the mid-to-high 20s. Swimming in the Tyrrhenian Sea in Cefalù felt almost like bath water, with sea temperatures ranging from the mid to high 20s throughout the month.
By October, temperatures began to drop slightly, but there was still plenty of sunny weather to enjoy the beach. It’s also a great time to take those long hikes you may have skipped during the scorching summer months.
By November, the summer heat is officially in the rear view mirror, although the sea temperature slowly cooled from the low 20s to the high teens by the end of the month. For me, that was still warm enough to enjoy a swim—especially compared to the Pacific Ocean in Victoria, BC, where the average temperature hovers around 10°C. The cooler water didn’t stop me from jumping in for a “polar bear” swim, even in the middle of winter!
Note:
*If you’re in Sicily to spend your vacation relaxing in a sun lounger in 30°C+ weather, then the summer time is your better option. The Sicilian sun in the summer months is HOT and can be wonderful, although we found it limited our options for day-to-day activities. Our 900-kilometer motorcycle ride through Italy last year, during a heat wave, was the true test of our strength… or perhaps our sanity.
Holidays & Festivals
Easter Celebration
Easter arrived early this year, and the celebrations in Sicily started in the weeks leading up to the official holiday. In Canada, my special memories of Easter are often associated with chocolate egg hunts, bunny rabbits, and a big meal shared with friends and family.
Here in Sicily, the focus was still on food—though in a distinctly Italian way. We celebrated with colomba, a traditional Italian sweet bread typically enjoyed over Easter. We indulged at Fiasconaro, a world-renowned bakery in Castelbuono, where they offered several decadent flavours of colomba for the holiday. It was so hard to choose just one, so we said, ‘Screw it!’ and stuffed our faces for more than a week. It was pure bliss.
Castelbuono Mushroom Festival
Mushrooms are such a staple in the locals’ diets in Sicily’s mountain towns, so it’s no surprise that the island dedicates multiple festivals to them. One of the most popular is the Castelbuono Mushroom Festival, a three-day celebration held every October that attracts thousands of people. We were lucky enough to experience it firsthand this year, and I have to say, I felt proud to live in such a special place.
We visited two separate days—Saturday night and the main event on Sunday. Saturday was much more laid-back, giving us a chance to chat with vendors, try some samples, and pick up some delicious local products. There was a tasting area in the castle’s courtyard where we enjoyed the evening sky while savouring freshly-made mushroom pasta.
After reading so much about this festival last year, I honestly expected it to be chaotic. I wondered, ‘How could they possibly stuff thousands of people into these narrow streets!? Well, when we returned on Sunday, the atmosphere shifted. We parked on the edge of town and immediately noticed 20+ buses lined up side by side, and cars squeezed in every available space. We could tell the festival was in full swing.
Despite the extra visitors, the Castelbuono Mushroom Festival felt like organized chaos—police officers took to the streets to manage traffic, chefs in the tasting area were rotating commercial-sized pots of pasta and mushroom sauce to serve the long line of hungry guests, and best of all, the rest of Castelbuono was completely closed off to vehicles. Paul and I loved wandering the empty car-free streets, discovering hidden nooks and crannies we typically miss when driving.
Since we already filled up on samples and mushroom pasta the night before, we scoped out the other food booths to try something new. As a child, my dad would say, “The best way to find a great restaurant is to avoid the ones with an empty parking lot.” So, we waited at a booth with a long line that was serving fried calamari, a favourite of ours on Vancouver Island. It was absolutely worth the wait!
The day’s entertainment also included the marching band, Sud Street Band, a magic bubble show, and live music at the castle. Unexpectedly, our visit to Torre dell’Orologio Museum turned out to have the ideal vantage point for observing the bustling atmosphere in Piazza Margherita below.
Oktoberfest Stefanese
Oktoberfest Stefanese is a unique blend of Sicilian and German traditions. The festival, held in the coastal town of Santo Stefano di Camastra, featured over 30+ food and drink vendors selling everything from sausages and artisanal beers to Sicilian desserts. A visit to a Sicilian festival wouldn’t be complete without tasting a cannoli, a temptation too hard to resist.
The main event was a live performance by the Skaricamu Band, and though I’m not a beer drinker, it was a blast watching people let loose. The crowd grew more animated as the night went on, with people dancing on tables—old guys in Hawaiian shirts to babies busting a move. There was an ambulance on standby, but it never felt like things were out of hand. It was all in good fun!
Santo Stefano di Camastra itself was a lovely surprise. Known for its authentic Sicilian ceramics, the town proudly displays its artistry everywhere—from the tiles on the handrails along the cobblestone streets to the steps leading down to breathtaking lookouts, or even as the centerpiece in local restaurants.
Cuor di Gelato Festival
Tucked in the Madonie Mountains is Castellana Sicula, a mere 50 kms from us in Castelbuono. We loved our previous visit in town, so we made the drive to check out the annual Gelato Festival in September.
It has a very small town vibe with only 3500 residents, so we inevitably drew attention towards us when we arrived. As per usual, our presence in town was received with kind hearts — one vendor enthusiastically attempted to help us with our Italian pronunciation.
We casually strolled along the blocked-off main road, sampling gelato from every booth we could find— six flavours in total, each served in a miniature cone. The delicious combination of flavours were so unexpected — like pineapple with mint or gin & tonic. Castellana Sicula has truly mastered the art of artisanal gelato, and we’ll happily make the drive again to sample some more next year!
Restaurants
With an abundance of pizzerias all over Sicily, it feels like we’re never more than a few weeks away from our next pizza fix. Here are some of our recent favourites:
Gulino Pizza & Dintorni
During our visit to Castellana Sicula for the Gelato Festival, we popped by Gulino Pizza & Dintorni. Thanks to our early dinner timing, the place was nice and quiet when we arrived. With ample indoor seating and a charming outdoor patio, it’s the perfect spot to relax and do a little people-watching. Our server was very friendly and attentive, and happily stopped to chat.
Always on the hunt for unique pizza toppings, I went for one of the gourmet options called the Catalani—a delightful combination of caramelized onions, burrata cheese, and bresaola, all drizzled with truffle oil. The caramelized onions sealed the deal for sure. It quickly became one of my favourite pizzas of all time.
Giardino di Venere
Located in Castelbuono above the Venus Bar, Giardino di Venere offers a diverse menu of classic Italian dishes, with a great selection of pizzas. We’ve been here twice—once on our own and again with friends—and the experience was just as wonderful each time. The staff, the food and the authentic style of the restaurant all come together to make it feel like a special place.
As a little parting gift, it’s customary to try a very strong shot of their herbal concoction. Wowsers! It’s a doozie. If you’re not ready for the night to end, the Venus Bar downstairs often has live music nights.
Ristorante La Brace
We’ve stopped at Ristorante La Brace a couple times after long days of hiking and adventures, and it’s a local favourite, especially for takeaway pizza. For our most recent visit, we had a quick 5 minute wait, and we were back on the road. It’s located in Isnello, only 20 minutes from home, but we managed to devour almost the entire two pizzas while driving. Once the taste of heavenly pizza touches your lips, you just can’t stop. (Sorry, inner thoughts!)
Hiking trails
Abbazia di San Giorgio
Located in Gratteri, less than 20 kms from Sicily’s Northern coast, our hike to Abbazia di San Giorgio was a moderate 6 km loop—the main highlight being the impressive 1,000-year-old castle.
The trail itself is mostly exposed, on a mix of asphalt and cobblestone, so it’s probably best to avoid it during the heat of a summer afternoon. We started later than planned, which turned our hike into a race against time to catch the sun as it set behind the mountains, casting a beautiful glow on the castle.
Once we reached the castle, we were amazed by the intricate stonework and architectural details. Each arch and column told a story of a bygone era, showcasing the skill and artistry of the builders. Although the castle was locked when we arrived, we found a creative way to explore its interior.
The tranquil atmosphere surrounding the Abbazia di San Giorgio castle made it a perfect place for reflection and relaxation. With a bit of planning and the right timing, it would be a unique and memorable picnic spot.
Pizzo Carbonara
At 1,979 meters above sea level, Pizzo Carbonara is the highest peak in the Madonie Mountains. The 7.4 km trail took us across a mix of terrains, including open, dry, rocky stretches. We hiked in April, and there was never a worry about the heat.
While the temperature in the nearby town was mild, the higher we climbed, the more we encountered patches of snow. My inner child couldn’t resist—I thought, “Time to build a snowman!”—and after avoiding winter for the past year, we ended up having a spontaneous snowball fight until my frozen fingers couldn’t take it anymore.
Having not seen a soul on the way up, the views at the summit were absolutely stunning. Our timing for the descent couldn’t have been more perfect. As we made our way back to the car, the setting sun painted the mountainside in a golden glow, offering sweeping views all the way to the sea.
Rocca di Sciara
Rocca di Sciara, just 30 kms from the coast in Caltavuturo, offers a quick detour for a short, remote hike into the Madonie Mountains. We tackled the 4.5 km trail on April Fool’s Day, but the breathtaking views were no joke.
Perched on the edge of a cliff above Caltavuturo, the ruins of the 9th-century Terravecchia Castle still stand tall. Along the trail, we passed limestone rock formations estimated to be over 250 million years old—rock that was actually used in the construction of the castle itself.
Final thoughts
No matter the time of year, we absolutely love Sicily. From the moment we first arrived last year, we knew it was a place we’d cherish. Now that we’re here for the long haul, we’ve discovered what truly makes this island special.
With stunning coastlines, endless options of delicious food, year-round festivals, plenty of opportunities for outdoor adventures, and some of the warmest, most welcoming people we’ve encountered anywhere in the world, Sicily is sure to win you over, too.
