Chile – Our 4 Month Trip

Chile has a large range of options for every budget, from hostels to high end hotels. Prices can go up significantly during high tourist season in certain areas, like Pucon and along the coast. We saved a bunch in Pucon by arriving in December instead of January. 

I book the majority of our accommodations through:

• Airbnb.com

• Booking.com

• Hotels.com

All of these options have apps that make it easy to keep track of your booked trips. Although Airbnb can be favourable with more places available in certain regions, Booking.com and Hotels.com both have a loyalty program with discounts and/or free hotel stays after continuous use of their platforms.

Ancud (Chiloe Island): 

Our Airbnb, ‘Cabin Sunset’ is a 2 bedroom, 1 bathroom country property that was ideal for a short stay to connect to activities in Ancud, and to reach the penguin sanctuary in Puñihuil. The owners were very friendly, and I LOVED sunset walks along the country road.

Pucon area:

This 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom country house is about a 30 minute drive outside of Pucon and about 10 minutes from Caburgua Lake.  It’s a rural property down an unpaved dirt road. The house was clean and the owner, Hernan, was a great host. The family lives in a distant house on the same plot of land with their two dogs. We really enjoyed the use of their charcoal BBQ for steaks and s’moreos! It’s very well connected to other activities, like many waterfalls within walking distance, the Caburgua Lake, and the Huerquehue National Parks if you’re a nature lover.

Santiago:

We stayed in this central 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom apartment. It’s in a secure apartment building, well-priced, clean, and the host, Sebastian, was very responsive. The top attractions in the city were easy to reach on foot with the airport only a 20 minute drive away.

Temuco:

This 2 bedroom, 1 bathroom apartment is nicely decorated with comfy beds, and it was convenient to explore on foot with many shops and restaurants nearby.

Our stay in Chile was longer than 90 days (and Canadians are limited to 90 days without a visa), so we needed to extend our stay somehow. We were hoping to go to Argentina for a weekend, but our car rental didn’t allow it. So, we walked across the border.

This is the Step by Step of what we did:

1. We drove from the town of Pucon, Chile to the border crossing, Paso Fronterizo Puesco.
2. Then, we parked our car on the Chile side (before the inspection) with the rest of the cars on the right side of the road.
3. The walk between the Chilean border crossing (Paso Fronterizo Puesco) to the Argentinian border crossing (Aduana Argentina - Tromen Manuil Malal) is about 1.5km (20 mins).
4. We initially told the border patrol that we were going to Argentina for a ‘day hike’ and returning in a few hours, and later explained our travel plans in detail and verbally confirmed 3 months accommodations outside of Chile. Their biggest concern is that you're trying to cheat the system and stay a year!
5. They stamped a document to hand to the guards, and then we were allowed to walk back to the Chilean border.
6. We showed our passports once more and received a new date stamp in Chile.

• This option allowed us to bypass a vehicle inspection. We were told by others that certain things are prohibited from entering Chile (i.e. Our friend had his wooden souvenirs confiscated).

• Limit what you bring with you. I only brought a small backpack with the necessities, like my wallet, passport, phone, water bottle and a protein bar to avoid any problems.

• We did this on New Year’s Day (a Sunday), and it wasn’t busy at all. This may have helped our odds since there were only a few people driving.

• The walk along the road has beautiful surroundings with views of the volcano. It’s also worth stopping for views of Lago Quilleihue on the return drive home.

*I am in no way guaranteeing that this method would work for everyone. We felt lucky that day. It saved us a lot of time and money that we would’ve spent taking a bus.

• The currency is Chilean Peso (CLP). The exchange rate for your currency can easily be found online, or you can use a currency exchange app, like XE currency converter. It's a handy tool for when you're offline with easy access when you're shopping or dining.

• Credit cards are commonly accepted in Chile, but it's always a good idea to have cash on hand for more rural areas and markets

Health:

Although there’s debate as to whether Chile is a ‘developed’ or ‘developing’ country, it typically has a higher standard of living than most South American countries.

99% of the population has access to clean water, compared to Mexico with only 43%.

If you’ve ever traveled to places, like Mexico, then the fear of getting sick from the water can put you off from trying certain experiences. We never got sick from anything we ate during our trip.

Safety:

Valparaíso:

It's a major city, so extra precautions need to be taken. 

As much as I enjoyed the large market downtown, it can get crowded and the surrounding area isn’t the best neighbourhood. We felt very safe on the city bus. 

Always keep an eye on your belongings. Pickpockets and theft of cell phones is unfortunately common. We were warned by many locals to be careful. I wore my backpack in the front of my body to keep my eye on it at all times.

Downtown Valparaiso at night can be sketchy if you’re not careful. Paul nearly had his phone stolen while we stepped out of the mall at 9 pm to order a Didi.

*A trick I use when I’m alone: If  I have to look at my phone for directions, I put my back up against a wall or a building so that no one can sneak up behind me.

*All of these tips mainly apply if you’re traveling far outside of the ‘tourist zones’ that are up in the hills.

Pucon:

Since Pucon is popular for tourists in the high season (starting late December), it can also attract thieves. We heard a couple stories of women’s purses stolen off of the back of their chair when they were sitting on a patio. Aside from that, the city and surrounding area is safe and incredibly beautiful. Hitchhiking is common, and the locals are very friendly.

Chiloé Island:

Compared to Valparaíso, Chiloé Island feels so wholesome and pure. Theft was the farthest thing from my mind. We always felt safe and welcome to the area.

Cabrero: (an hour south of Chillán)

Saltos del Laja: 

It’s a combination of 4 waterfalls ranging in height between 20-35 meters high. The waterfalls is centered around tourism in the area, so there are plenty of shops, restaurants, tours and buses to connect to the area.

Chiloé Island:

Piedra Run Beach: 

This long stretch of sandy beach is just down the road from the penguin sanctuary, so it’s very convenient to explore them both and to go for a swim. It doesn't attract the crowds like the main beaches in Ancud, so you'll surely find a private spot to sunbath, or have a picnic.

Puñihuil Penguin Sanctuary:

If you’ve ever dreamed of seeing penguins in the wild, this penguin sanctuary is a rare sight with a mixed colony of two types of penguins, Humboldt and Magellanic penguins. Multiple companies are set up on the beach with daily departures spaced out between 10:30 - 6:00 pm. The cost is 9000 pesos ($13.00 CAD), and the trip duration is about 40 minutes round trip. We arrived with our own car, and upon arrival, we were instructed to drive on the beach to park closer to where the companies are set up. Tip: Bring a zoom lens! The boat companies have restrictions on how close they can get to the penguins because it's a protected area.

Las Cascadas:

Salto Las Cascadas:

It's a stunning waterfall that can be reached after an easy 20 minute walk from the parking area. Entrance fee is by donation. Be prepared to get wet if you want a good photo of the waterfall, it's powerful!

Pucon area:

Mirador de Peces: 

It’s a beautiful walk on a boardwalk that winds its way along the river. If you’re looking for a more unique experience, the main office will provide fishing gear to catch your own fish (for a fee).

Parque Nacional Huerquehue:

This National Park has a gorgeous swimming lake, lagoons, hiking trails with various difficulty levels, picnic areas and camping on-site. We hiked the 12.7 kilometer San Sebastian Trail, which takes you on a journey through the lush forest surrounded by monkey puzzle trees. When you reach the top at 2000m, you’re rewarded with a 360° view of 9 volcanoes. We hiked on a clear, hot summer day. Bring lots of water and food! The hike up isn’t easy. If you can get through the toughest part, the way down is MUCH easier and faster. Park Hours: Tuesday - Sunday,  8:30am - 6:30pm (last entry is 2:00pm); Cost: 3500-4500 pesos (Residents), and 5000-10,000 pesos (Foreigners). Tip: Purchase tickets in advance (internet is spotty!).

Salto Bellavista waterfalls:
The waterfalls can be reached after a short hike along a trail. As you descend, you’ll see the upper and lower set of falls. We enjoyed scrambling over the rocks and taking a plunge in the icy cold water at the bottom of the upper falls. Our visit was in the middle of December, and we had the place to ourselves until just before we left. The entrance fee is 2000 pesos ($3.00 CAD).

Salto El Leon waterfall: 

Located about 45 minutes outside of Pucón, it's absolutely worth the drive to this magnificent 300 foot waterfall. It's one of several along the Pucón ‘waterfall trail’, so you can spend an afternoon visiting them all.

Salto Los Copihues:

There’s a short hike down to reach the waterfalls. Our visit was on a weekday in the middle of December, and we had the place to ourselves. If you’re feeling brave, there’s a decent sized pool of water at the bottom of the falls for a quick dip. It’s icy cold but so refreshing! The entrance fee is 2000 pesos (less than $3 CAD), and parking is arranged with the owner of the land just before the hike begins.

• If you love waterfalls as much as I do, there are many others to check out in Chile.

Termas Los Pozones:

This hot springs is popular among the locals as it remains the most natural in the area. The sound of the Liucura River next to the pools added to the relaxing atmosphere.  It’s located 35 kilometers outside of Pucón, and it can be accessed by car or a bus. It’s common to see hitchhikers in the area, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to get a ride. The cost is 15,000 pesos ($22 CAD) with basic amenities, including bathrooms, and change rooms.

Villarrica Lake:

The lake has many sandy beaches along the water's edge that are perfect for swimming. The main beach, Playa Grande, can get busy, so it was nice to explore quieter spots further away on a paddleboard. This is where I found the best spots for photos of the Villarrica Volcano, and a little further along is the Pucón sign.

Talca:

Botanical Garden at the University of Talca: 

The 32 acres of land is free to visit with 60 animal species, such as swans, horses, sheep, ducks, alpaca, etc. The majority of the animals roam freely throughout the gardens. It is divided into the ‘5 continents’ of the world with free tours for a deeper explanation of each region. There are also really nice shaded walking trails and a playground for children.

Quinchao Island: (a 5 min ferry from Chiloé Island)

Humedal de Aves:
This is a protected bird sanctuary that attracts a variety of bird species, such as great egrets, straight-billed curlews, and my favourite, the black-necked swans. Many species return every year during their migration between the Northern Hemisphere to Quinchao Island. There’s an extensive newly built boardwalk that allows access to everyone along the wetlands. It’s a relaxing place to visit for solitude and to listen to the sound of nature.

Playa Achao:

I loved walking along this quiet stretch of the coast. When the tide is low, you may even see some locals using hand pumps to pull up prawns and other sea life from the seabed.

Quiquel Beach:

Located in a small fishing village, this beach is particularly nice when the tide is low to venture along the rocky coastline.

As long-term travellers, some non-negotiables are a working phone and (hopefully) reliable internet. And, some language apps to help you communicate along the way.

• You must register your phone within 30 days if you’re planning on using a local sim/e-sim in Chile, otherwise it will be blocked.

Paul has been buying his e-sims through Airalo for the past year. It’s typically a good price with different price points and data plans available worldwide.

• My phone isn’t e-sim compatible, so I bought a sim card when we landed in Santiago. You can check if your phone is e-sim compatible here.

• Here’s a comparison of the e-sim options available and a breakdown of the differences between an e-sim vs a sim card:

I used the WOM phone network, but I would switch to Entel next time. Paul had a much stronger coverage with Entel, especially in Pucon and on the more isolated island of Chiloe. Some locals we met also recommended it. 

If you’re unsure which phone network to choose, these resources may help you:

• This report compares phone networks, such as reliability, download speed, etc. in a specific country.

•  This interactive map compares the amount and type (2G to 5G) of coverage available in a specific country

A language translation app, like Google translate, can make or break whether a trip goes smoothly. We would've had so many lost connections with the locals without it. Be sure to choose the correct language and download for offline use to avoid using up your data.

Unfortunately, our Spanish still needs a lot improvement, so we use Duolingo to practice.

Chillán:

Restaurante 3 Regiones: 

It’s a Peruvian style restaurant with creative menu options, slightly out of the way for a more intimate experience, and the staff were very attentive.

Felice Cafe:

Their coffee and food are amazing with generous portions. There's a really nice indoor space with a patio too. 

Chiloé Island:

Locations - Ancud & Castro:

Café Blanco:

All 3 locations have a similar style with tasteful decor, a relaxing atmosphere, and a wide selection of souvenirs to take home. They have a nice selection of drinks on their menu, ranging from specialty coffees, milkshakes to lemonade. And, their desserts are heavenly! I particularly liked this location in Ancud, since we were able to enjoy a quiet afternoon playing Scopa (a Sicilian card game!).

Ancud:

Explore: Cafe & Lounge:

An absolute must visit if you’re in the area visiting the penguins! It’s an isolated cafe located down a dirt road with spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean. They don’t typically have dinner available to non-overnight guests, but they made an exception for us to enjoy a special Valentine’s dinner. It was a one-of-a-kind experience. If you’re feeling adventurous, there’s a trail that you can hike to reach the water. 

Castro:

Cafeteria, tostaduria de café y restaurante: 

This coffee shop is located 10 minutes outside of Castro, and they served delicious coffee and desserts. It was a quiet place to work without any pressure to buy more to stay longer.

Dalcahue:

Casita de Piedra: 

We enjoyed their specialty drinks and desserts. There are two floors with beautiful views from the top. There’s also fresh ground coffee available to take home.

Pid Pid:

At the Pid Pid Festival, there was an assembly line of locals making hundreds of fresh, hand-made empanadas. Other food stalls were set up selling various local dishes, like ‘Cazuela Gallina’.

• These are some popular dishes on Chiloé Island.

Pucon:

Madd Goat Coffee Roasters:

This café is tucked away in a plaza with several other shops, and it became our #1 place to buy fresh coffee beans to go. Of course, they also make delicious specialty coffee too. The service is always impeccable, and some of the staff speak English.

Rústicos Café:

With a central location, this quickly became our favourite coffee shop in town. Their drinks, desserts and fresh salads were always excellent. With one of the fastest internet speeds in town, it was a popular place for remote workers.

Quinchao Island (a 5 min ferry ride from Chiloé Island):

Curaco de Velez:

Restaurant Bahia: 

Their menu consists of fresh ceviche, seafood/meat dishes, and empanadas. The price range is between 2000 - 9500 pesos ($3.00 - 14.00 CAD). And, the location on the waterfront has a beautiful view of the bird sanctuary.

Achao:

Restaurant “Sao Paulo”: 

This one-woman operation is a very authentic experience. The restaurant is owned and operated by a sweet, older lady who’s been cooking for 40+ years. There was only 1 dish on the menu, a type of Chilean cazuela, which is similar to a hearty soup/stew. We were there for lunch on a weekday. There were signs on the walls with the names of other dishes, so I think the menu varies throughout the week. Also, everything is paid in cash.

Santiago:

Wonderland Cafe: 

This café is devoted to showcasing the true essence of the story, Alice in Wonderland, with its whimsical decor and menu options. It’s clear that every little detail was thought of to make it feel like an authentic experience. There are regular hot/cold drinks along with very elaborate ‘Drink Me” concoctions. My drink had a full sized brownie on top! And, their monster sized salads are so delicious! The spiral staircase has floor to ceiling decorations covering the walls to make it feel you’ve been transported to another world. On the top floor, there’s a hallway with trippy funhouse mirrors which lead to Alice’s Room, a fun souvenir shop with clothing, notebooks, puzzles, etc. to purchase.

Temuco:

Chichera Las Canoas: 

This rustic, no-frills place sells home-made chicha and cider, and it is a unique experience with the locals. The owner, Jorge, is extremely friendly, and we watched as he greeted all of his guests with kindness. The bottles of chicha and cider are also very inexpensive, so we saw some people purchasing a half a dozen at a time.

Valparaiso:

Bodegas RE winery:

Established in 2008, this award-winning winery is located 30 minutes outside of Valparaíso. We took part in a group tour that included a charcuterie board and wine tasting. Their tours range in price from 12,000 - 42,000 pesos ($17.00 - 61.00 CAD). If you’ve always wanted to learn how to make wine, they even have a tour called, “Winemaker for the Day” to learn how to make your own wine to take home. Their main entrance is nicely decorated with additional snacks and souvenirs to take home, with a lovely outdoor space to explore.

Across Chile:

Mall Chino:

These stores can be found on Google maps or just by wandering around. There are a lot of locations. Although I’d much rather support local businesses, I was relieved to find these stores after searching in other stores with no luck. You can find household, bedding, stationary, beauty products, sewing materials, clothing, etc. Some of the locations have 2 floors. They are massive! 

Santa Isabel: 

It’s a common supermarket chain in Chile. I especially liked that I was able to find natural peanut butter (Paul’s favourite!). 

Chiloé Island:

Castro:

Nudos Chiloe: 

This store is a collection of unique hand-made products from local artists.

Dalcahue:

Feria Artesanal de Dalcahue:

This is a lively market with artisanal products, such as wool hats and sweaters, hand-made baskets, etc. Stop by on Sunday for the main event.

Pucon area:

Book Bazaar:

This used book store is owned by Gavin, a South-African born. He sells books in English as well. It’s tucked in a little community of shops and restaurants, so it can be a fun way to spend the afternoon. Gavin is also very social and well-connected, so he can provide a lot of useful information about the area.

Crearte:

This store is packed with their own unique art and souvenirs inspired by the Chilean culture and wildlife, ranging from clothing, stickers, coasters, jewelry, etc. There are multiple locations throughout the country.

Duck House:

After finding the duck store in Ireland, I had to check out the one in Chile too. I love the store’s creativity.

Dupan:

This vendor was at the summer market near Book Bazaar. They sell really nice quality leather products, such as wallets, belts, toiletry bags, etc. You can also find them on Amazon.

Supermarket Eltit:

This was our go-to supermarket in town. Good prices and products available. And, there are convenient produce markets nearby.

Madd Goat Coffee Roasters: 

This quaint café sells bags of high quality coffee beans to take home, and they can grind it for you too.

Meli Newen: 

This store sells hand-carved wooden products made with salvaged wood from Caburgua Lake. It is of superior quality and the store owner, Manuel, is very friendly. The personal touches, like the nicely designed labels and the company name printed into the cutting boards really makes it feel like a one-of-a-kind souvenir.

Outdoor hiking stores if you need to stock up:

Andesgear

Doite

Fjällraven

Kuhl

Patagonia

The North Face

Volkanica Outdoors

*Puerto Varas and Puerto Montt are also good places for outdoor gear.

Quinchao Island: (a 5 min ferry ride from Chiloé Island)

Artesania Curaco De Vélez: 

It’s a small market set up under a white tent with hand-made products ranging from basket weaving, jewelry, natural beauty products, etc.

• One of the vendors, ‘Mama Gina’, makes baskets with recycled bottles! Her contact info is: +56967401817, if you’re interested in her products. 

Artesania en Fibra Vegetal: 

This store specializes in hand-woven baskets and other woven products, like trivets, bowls, etc. from the remote island, Isla Llingua. Paul was able to meet Gladias, the woman who made his laundry basket. He cherishes it that much more knowing exactly where it came from.

Valparaiso:

Feria Libre Avenida Argentina: 

This outdoor farmer’s market is on Wednesday and Saturday, and then it becomes a ‘flea market’ on Sunday with everything imaginable. It’s quite the experience walking up and down the street to see what’s for sale. 

• Some vendors may be willing to make a deal the night before while they set up. You’ll have the first pick of the freshest produce.

Lider:

Located inside the shopping mall, it’s a large “Walmart’ equivalent downtown Valparaiso right across from the farmer’s market. The produce at Lider was typically limited and/or higher cost, so I bought mainly non-produce items here. *I was able to add more data to my phone plan in the Electronics Department.

Confiteria Fiesta: 

This shop was recommended by a local for the best treats in town. ‘Bastón Viena’ candy from Argentina is my favourite!

Parque Italia: 

There’s a large Christmas fair here every Wednesday starting in late November throughout the day and evening. It’s a nice place to pick up extra Christmas gifts or decorations, and to feel the Christmas spirit while you’re on holiday.

Airlines:

We used American Airlines for our 1 stop flight between Dublin, Ireland to Santiago, Chile. Their amazing customer service, and the continuous drinks and meals throughout may be what saved my sanity after 35 hours of travel. And to top it off, we were served ice cream! That’s a guaranteed way to keep everyone happy!

Ferries:

Puerto Montt to Chiloé Island:

The ferries run frequently, about every 15 minutes. It departs from the Pargua Port (mainland) to the Chacao Port (Chiloe Island). The trip across the Chacao Strait takes about 20 minutes. No advance reservation required.

Dalcahue (Chiloé Island) - Quinchao Island:

The ferries depart frequently, and only set you back $3-4 (free for passengers). No advance reservation required. 

Quinchao Island (Achao) - Remote Islands:

We never made it on one of these ferries, but the boats were always packed full of people and long-term supplies (even mattresses! It was fascinating to watch it all take place as a normal part of their lives.

Public buses:

How to get from Santiago Airport to Downtown Valparaíso:

Step 1:

Santiago Airport to Santiago bus station (Terminal Alameda)

A taxi or ride share with Didi or Cabify (alternatives to UBER) will take about 25 minutes, and cost between 8000 - 10,000 pesos.

Step 2:

Santiago (Terminal Alameda) - Valparaíso (Terminal Rodoviario)

The buses depart every 20 minutes between 7am - 10pm, and it will take 70 - 90 minutes. The main bus companies are Turbus and Pullman, and the cost is between 5000 - 7000 pesos ($7.00 - 10.00 CAD).

How to use the buses in Valparaíso:

I used Google maps to find out bus times and connections on a daily basis for a month in Valparaíso. The locals use buses frequently, so they can point you in the direction of bus stops if they’re unmarked. It always felt like a unique experience. Once we saw a postal worker board the bus with his deliveries for the day.

How to get from Valparaíso to Viña del Mar:

It’s a single bus ride that takes 15 minutes, so it makes it easy to split your time to have a beach adventure or to ride up and down on the funiculars! 

*City bus times aren’t always reliable, so plan accordingly. The cost is low and you can pay the driver in cash. He’ll provide you with change. 

*We didn’t take any long distance buses aside from Santiago, so I’m not sure if they’re more punctual.

Taxis & Ride sharing

Didi app (alternative to Uber): The cost for rides was always reasonable, and the app was simple to use. It was especially useful if the buses were delayed or we were traveling at night.

Car rental:

Dezar Rent a Car:

With locations in Viña del Mar & Santiago, it was a convenient, no-hassle car rental company. We rented from their Viña del Mar location, and all of our communication was with Rodrigo who speaks English very well. We paid for full coverage insurance to avoid any hassles.

Our rental was a new small-sized car, which was great for the city and easy parking. I’d recommend one of their other options, like an SUV or 4x4, if you’re planning on driving down country roads or off the beaten path. Some of the roads in Chile are not well-maintained.