Castelbuono, Sicily: Part 2
Within a week, the decision was clear that we wanted to extend our stay in Castelbuono, Sicily. It’s undeniable that Castelbuono is a special place to us.
With a strong connection to traditions, naturally beautiful and fertile land, and the unconditional help of the friendly locals, this small Sicilian town made us feel like we were transported to a different world. To us, a simpler life.
Sicily has gone through a lot of hardships throughout its history, but it has also produced a lot of amazing things along the way.
I think we should honour the past and its traditions, yet keep an open mind for future ideas and creativity. Castelbuono seems to have figured out this concept.
Many of our favourite restaurants in the area, like Do’ House, Hostaria Cycas, Bergi Farm, and Casena Mongerrati, are already making strides towards a better future by adapting to a locally-grown ‘Km Zero’ menu and through organic farming.
The love of natural, quality food is prominent in town. However, Mario Cicero, the mayor of Castelbuono, started his own innovative, eco-conscious program in 2008. As a way to reintroduce the traditional Sicilian donkeys, Castelbuono started using donkeys for garbage collection.
This program has helped reduce the cost of garbage collection, lowered the environmental footprint, increased job opportunities, and it certainly makes it easier to navigate the narrow streets! As an animal lover, I absolutely loved seeing the donkeys roaming around with their owners. I was lucky enough to go for a mini donkey ride. Maybe I’ll be a future donkey-riding garbage collector one day!
Donkeys in the streets weren’t the only ‘wildlife’ encounters we had. We took a 20 min ride out of town into the Madonie Mountains to see the unique centuries-old giant hollies, some of which are 20m high. Aside from a few hikers that were hiking the opposite direction, we had the place to ourselves (so we thought!).
As we explored, we encountered HUNDREDS of wild animals: anything from mountain goats, wild boar, and massive deer. It felt like a series of magical moments just for us.
With stunning landscapes and amazing food, another key ingredient that makes one place feel special over another is the people.
After randomly finding our accommodations online, we were so grateful to our host who provided us with fresh produce from his garden all summer long, eggs from the chickens on the property, and a free Italian cooking lesson (his tiramisu is SO good!).
Thankfully, our host also knows multiple languages from working in the hospitality industry, so all of those years in French Immersion FINALLY paid off (thanks Mom!). His time spent working in hospitality certainly gives him an edge to know what people are looking for in a holiday, but more than anything, it’s just the ‘Sicilian way’.
Time after time, the people in Castelbuono reminded us of pure kindness, something that can get lost in the hustle and bustle of ‘Big City living’.
Remote co-working space
Since Paul works remotely, we’re always on the lookout for nearby cafés or coworking spaces for a change of scenery. ‘Coffee is Life’ in Italy, so it’s unlikely to ever have a shortage of cafés no matter where you go in the country.
‘South Working Castelbuono’, a remote work space in Castelbuono, is divided into a series of rooms with beautiful vistas, and of course, has fast internet. We love doing our Italian lessons in one of the private reservable rooms.
The cost to use South Working Castelbuono is very affordable, ranging from €5/day – €30/year.
And, the enchanting surroundings in the cloister of the San Francesco Church offer a perfect setting for a lunch break.
Fabrizio is the main organizer at ‘South Working Castelbuono‘, and he’s someone that always seems to ‘know a guy’ (or girl).
He’s very well connected to the community and arranged a gathering with his friends, including other English speakers, an Italian teacher and a fellow Canadian, to make us feel welcome in town.
We also needed a place to store the motorcycle at the end of our 3 months in Italy, so naturally, Fabrizio ‘knew a guy’ for that too.
Random Act of Kindness
These ‘random’ acts of kindness didn’t end here. When Paul ventured into town one day to fill up our water jugs, he noticed the fountains weren’t running. After asking around, a Sicilian quickly offered to help. He gestured to follow him, so Paul followed along on his motorcycle with no idea where he was headed. It turns out, this man was bringing Paul to his house. The man quickly stepped inside, and reappeared holding a bottle of iced cold sparkling water for Paul.
More and more, I miss the days when strangers didn’t hesitate to help one another. These initial connections with the locals are hopefully the stepping stones to long lasting memories and future friends.
With oceans dividing us, it makes it difficult to stay connected to our life in Canada. I’m very blessed that I have some really caring people in my life.
My mom has a ‘bucket list’ that I’m sure is always growing (as is mine), so she flew across the world to spend some time in Italy with Paul and I. We only had limited time, but I am forever grateful. To make sure my mom had a true Sicilian experience, the three of us learned how to play Scopa together, a traditional Sicilian card game.
Some of these Sicilian card games go as far back as the 18th century! You can often see groups of old men sitting together in the street playing cards. One day, I suspect Paul will pull up a chair and join in the fun!
Adapting in a foreign land with a foreign language is challenging, but it’s worth figuring it out. I feel like we’ve barely touched the surface of what this place has to offer. Italy will leave a lasting impression, and we can’t wait to return in March (after some much-needed Italian lessons) for another 3 months to continue our search for a new home.
Until then, we sadly say goodbye with open hearts as we prepare to explore a different part of the world: We’re off to Ireland!!
