Baja California Sur, Mexico
Almost two years ago, Paul and I took off on our very first trip together. Here’s a look back on the journey that ignited our desire to travel the world together…
With our mutual love of travel, Paul and I booked a month-long adventure to Baja California Sur, Mexico after knowing each other for less than a month. Since it was early into our relationship, this trip was either going to ‘make or break’ us. We lived 45 minutes apart, and we were about to go from weekend visits to 24/7!
We kicked off our adventure in San Jose del Cabo down South, and quickly made our way west to Todos Santos, one of Mexico’s ‘‘Pueblos Mágicos” (magical towns). From there, we headed north to Loreto, a charming town on the Sea of Cortez, where we celebrated Christmas. After a brief visit to La Paz for New Year’s Eve, we wrapped up the trip with an epic road trip along Baja’s untamed East Coast, eventually returning to San Jose Del Cabo.
What to expect
Baja California Sur offers an incredible variety of landscapes: vast deserts, serene white-sand beaches, towering mountain ranges, and lush tropical areas. Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or cultural exploration, the region has it all.
Best Time to Visit: November to April
During these months, you can count on sunny skies almost every day, with temperatures hovering in the mid-to-high 20s°C. We traveled in early December and returned in early January, avoiding the holiday rush and soaring airline prices.
How to Get Around
To explore the diverse terrain, we rented a Jeep Rubicon from the Budget downtown location (to avoid the high airport rental fees). If you’re like us and enjoy off-road adventures, I highly recommend a 4×4 vehicle. We had a blast driving on the beaches, discovering hidden gems, and venturing along the rugged East Cape, where we found a sense of solitude and nearly untouched natural beauty.
Where to Sleep
We opted for a mix of Airbnbs and hotels to ensure we had reliable Wi-Fi for work and a kitchen (most of the time) to cut down on costs.
For those with a more adventurous spirit, Baja is perfect for camping. Bring your campervan (or rent one locally) and head to the coast. There are numerous scenic spots where you can camp overnight—sometimes for a small fee—giving you the chance to experience the region’s beauty up close, under the stars.
San Jose Del Cabo, Mexico
San Jose del Cabo is often seen as just a gateway to the region, with frequent international flights, but we enjoyed our limited time in town. Unlike the bustling party scene next door in the resort town, Cabo San Lucas, San Jose del Cabo has a more relaxed vibe, where genuine Mexican experiences still exist.
When in Mexico…drink tequila!
After settling into our hotel in San Jose del Cabo, we decided to stretch our legs and explore the town. In true Mexican fashion, we were quickly sidetracked by the tequila tastings at Tequila Town, where we sampled a handful of local spirits.
Later, after a quick stop at the supermarket, we were armed with a bag of essentials—snacks, frozen mangoes, and a cheap blender, to kick off our Mexico adventure in style. With no cups in our Airbnb, we got resourceful—cutting a plastic bottle in half to create makeshift margarita cups. We went with the Goldilocks approach, and tested our margarita recipe a few times to get it ‘just right’.
Frida Cabo Restaurant
On our way to pick up our rental car, we stopped at Frida Cabo for a huge breakfast, after our taxi driver recommended it. The place was clearly a favourite spot among the locals. As we walked in with our hiking backpacks, we probably stuck out like sore thumbs, but the warm service and delicious food made us feel right at home. The large portions and the friendly atmosphere made it a perfect start to our day.
An added bonus was discovering the cute bunnies hopping around the back of the property. We were relieved to see they weren’t part of the menu!
Tamarindos Restaurant
For our final night in Mexico, we decided to splurge at Tamarindos, an organic, farm-to-table restaurant located just outside of town. The moment we entered, it felt like we were somewhere special—fine dining meets rustic farmhouse. The ambiance was enchanting, with twinkling lights scattered across the property, giving the place a romantic and intimate feel.
The menu at Tamarindos was impressive, offering a wide range of fresh, locally sourced options. Paul couldn’t resist the allure of a $500 steak on the menu, but in the end, we both opted for a more modest, yet equally delicious, farm-raised hen. Since then, they’ve dramatically lowered their prices in 2 years, and removed the extravagant steak option. Tamarindos raises its own quail and hens on-site and works closely with local fishermen and farmers to source their other meats and fish.
With its stunning grounds and thoughtful design, Tamarindos was the perfect place to enjoy a meal, and the opportunity to wander around the beautifully lit property after dinner added an extra touch of magic to the evening.
While we didn’t manage to book one of their popular cooking classes (they were fully booked during our visit), the quality of the food alone made it clear why those classes fill up quickly!
Whether you’re there for a drink, a meal, or just to take in the atmosphere, Tamarindos is a must-visit for anyone spending time in San José del Cabo.
Todos Santos, Mexico
Our stopover in San Jose del Cabo was brief, as we were eager to explore the quirky coastal town, Todos Santos. With its rich history, beautiful coastline and strong artistic influences, it has been named one of Mexico’s ‘Magic Towns’.
Todos Santos offers a mix of relaxation, adventure, and artistic exploration that made our time there unforgettable. Whether you’re interested in turtle conservation, great food, or just soaking in the town’s unique vibe, this magical place has something for everyone.
Shopping in a Mexican Back-Alley
In my attempt to find some authentic Mexican chocolate, we stumbled upon La Bella TS, a hidden gem tucked away in a back alley off the main road. The shopping area was filled with colourful souvenir shops, an eclectic mix of local snacks, unique artisan goods, and shelves stocked with tequila!
Despite the eager salespeople competing for our attention, we resisted the temptation until we found a shop at the back, run by a very charismatic owner. After explaining that our relationship was still in the early stages, he offered us a signature drink called the ‘Sex Machine’, a concoction of tequila (naturally!) and damiana tea, a known aphrodisiac. Of course, we couldn’t resist stocking up on some tequila and local treats before we left!
Volunteering at a Turtle Sanctuary
For me, the biggest draw to the Todos Santos area was the opportunity to volunteer as a ‘Biologist for a Day’ at Tortugueros Las Playitas, a non-profit turtle sanctuary.
They have a simple incubation greenhouse set up where volunteers monitor the nests and step in when necessary by carefully digging the nests to increase the turtles’ survival rate. One of the biggest challenges sea turtles face is the impact of changing weather patterns, as it has affected the male/female ratio of turtles, so the greenhouse helps regulate the sand temperatures to improve the gender ratio. There are also ATV excursions at midnight where volunteers patrol the beaches to look for new nesting sites.
Every evening at sunset, the sanctuary releases the baby turtles collected from their nests’ during the day back into the ocean, and Paul and I had the chance to assist in this magical moment. If you’re visiting between early December and early March, make sure to stop by and witness this incredible experience. They release hatchlings nightly, and the release is open to the public, free of charge.
After several memorable encounters with sea turtles in Hawaii and Ecuador, it felt so rewarding to help the little dudes have a fighting chance against all odds.
Cocina de Campo by Agricole
Located just outside El Pescadero, a small town south of Todos Santos, Cocina de Campo restaurant is a culinary treasure that’s worth seeking out. The restaurant serves up exceptional locally grown food in a relaxed, beautifully lit setting. The service was top-notch, and the farm-to-table menu was a perfect reflection of the Baja region’s flavours. Though it’s not exactly hidden, the understated location off the highway feels like a well-kept secret.
Tienda de Campo by Agricole
Next door to the restaurant, we discovered Tienda de Campo, a delightful market that’s perfect for stocking up on local groceries before heading out. The shop specializes in organic ingredients, locally made products, and features a fresh bakery with meals ‘to-go’. It’s also just a short drive from Cerritos Beach, making it a great stop for picking up snacks for a beach day.
Cerritos Beach
Cerritos Beach, located less than 20 minutes from Todos Santos, is a haven for surfers, but we were lucky to visit on a quiet day when the beach was empty. The long stretch of sandy shore made for the perfect backdrop to enjoy the sunset. Unlike many of the other beaches in the area, Cerritos Beach has calm waters that are ideal for swimming, and we had a blast splashing around.
The Wishing Tree
One of the town’s more whimsical spots is the Wishing Tree, an open invitation to leave a personal message or wish. Visitors are encouraged to write down their thoughts and hang them on the tree, adding to the creative spirit of Todos Santos. With its artistic community, this simple yet meaningful tradition felt like the perfect way to leave a mark on the town.
Miguel’s Restaurant
For a casual bite, we found Miguel’s Restaurant—a quirky spot right off the main road in Todos Santos. The owner, who’s as charming as the decor, made us feel right at home with his warm hospitality and generous portions of authentic Mexican fare. We got a good laugh when he insisted on taking photos of us like we were part of a professional photo shoot. He even crouched on the floor for creative angles, making for a fun and memorable experience.
Loreto, Mexico
Nestled more than four hours north of La Paz, Loreto, Mexico is a charming town with a population of under 20,000 people, offering a peaceful retreat away from the crowds. Designated as one of Mexico’s “Magical Towns,” Loreto is known for its picturesque cobblestone streets, diverse opportunities for ocean adventures, and stunning hikes waiting to be discovered. It’s the perfect place to slow down and enjoy the beauty of Baja California Sur in a more laid-back, authentic setting.
Netflix + Chill + Food Poisoning
Our stay in Todos Santos was all too brief, but we were eager to hit the road north to Loreto. Unfortunately, the universe threw us a curve ball.
Just before our 5-hour drive, Paul started showing all the signs of food poisoning. Despite his discomfort, he was determined to press on, and we began our journey with frequent pit stops on the side of the highway. It went something like this: Drive, slam on the brakes, puke, rinse, and repeat. Not exactly the scenic road trip we had envisioned. I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone, but thankfully, we finally made it to our Airbnb in one piece.
A day or two later, I started feeling sick too, and it completely knocked me out for the next week. With both of us bedridden, we had no choice but to embrace our downtime. We turned to Netflix and decided to catch up on some old ‘classics’, aka Titanic.
Neither of us had seen Titanic since it was first released 25 years ago, and given the movie’s themes of romance and survival, it felt strangely appropriate for our current situation. So, we settled in, tissues in hand, and watched the love story unfold—except this time, we were less concerned about Jack and Rose and more focused on surviving the stomach bug.
Canyon Hike at Cañon del Mezquite
The drive into the trailhead for Cañon del Mezquite was pretty sketchy, even in our trusty 4×4 Jeep. The road was rough, and we took it slow—slow and steady wins the race, right? Without a high-clearance vehicle, the trek would add another 5 kilometers to your hike, starting from the highway entrance.
When we finally arrived at the trailhead, I was full of excitement about our upcoming hike. Naturally, I decided to kick things off with a running “jump shot” photo. I get an A for effort, but a D for my landing. I slipped on the gravel, scraped my hand, and somehow managed to injure my wrist pretty badly. I brushed it off and was ready to move forward, but not before I found a place to tinkle.
Since the canyon is in a fairly remote area, I quickly found a place to drop my drawers off to the side of the trail. Just as I was about to enjoy the feeling of glorious relief, I felt a sudden and sharp pain. I had a surprise visitor—one small but mighty.
This hike will forever be remembered as ‘The Day a Bee Stung My Butt’. Not exactly the peaceful moment I had imagined.
Luckily, the worst was behind me, and the rest of the hike was incredible. The canyon’s landscape is stunning, with towering cliffs and beautiful rock formations. Depending on the water levels and your climbing abilities, you can either wade through waist-deep (or higher) water in the canyon floor or scramble up the rocky edges along the top. Since we were there in December, the water was freezing cold! We opted to go without a guide, which meant learning the best routes by trial and error.
The hike is mostly exposed to the elements, so I’m really glad we didn’t choose to hike on a 30°C+ day. Water shoes, a dry bag for electronics, plenty of water and snacks, and you’re all set for the hike. The scenery along the way is truly breathtaking, and if the timing is right, you might just have this beautiful oasis all to yourself…minus the odd tarantula.
Orlando’s Restaurant
Thanks to an insider tip from the blogger Eternal Expat, we discovered that Orlando’s Restaurant was the place to be in Loreto, Mexico. The restaurant’s open-air setup was perfect for enjoying the mild weather, and it quickly became one of our favourite spots.
We visited so often that the staff began to recognize us—and we were lucky enough to be served by Omar, who had an incredible presence and made us feel like family. He’s the type of server you hope for—warm, friendly, and always with a smile.
We took full advantage of Orlando’s all-day menu, which offered everything from freshly squeezed orange juice, delicious coffee, hearty omelettes, and even a special Christmas dinner. We also couldn’t resist a second round of the restaurant’s signature mango margaritas. One evening, we were serenaded by a mariachi duo, adding to the festive vibe.
Snorkeling at Isla Coronado
After a recommendation from our neighbours, we went to the boat marina in Loreto, and hired a local fisherman to take us out on a private, low cost boat tour to Isla Coronado, where we could snorkel to our hearts’ content. We travel with our own snorkeling gear, so it makes it super easy to go anytime, anywhere.
For more flexibility in your schedule, it’s common to hire one of the fishermen for a flat fee (ask around for a good price) for a day trip to Isla Coronado. Our captain had a small fishing boat, which was perfect for just the two of us. He asked us where we wanted to get dropped off on the island, and then he waited in the deeper waters (within eyesight) with the other fishing boats. We mutually agreed on a time for pick-up, but we could flag him down anytime off of the shore.
It allowed us plenty of time to explore the island, snorkel in crystal-clear waters, sunbathe, and enjoy our packed lunch, all before heading back as the sun dipped below the horizon.
Note:
We visited in December (winter time), so the water temperature can be a bit chilly. If you tend to run cold like I do, I’d suggest you bring a shorty wetsuit (or rent one!).
Christmas Celebrations
As someone who still feels like a “big kid” at Christmas, I get excited every year for the lights, decorations, and that unmistakable festive feeling in the air. During our stay in Loreto, we stumbled upon an unexpected holiday treat—the Santa Claus Parade—while driving back from our hike at Cañon del Mezquite.
Traffic came to a standstill, and there we were, caught in the holiday spirit, as Elvis Presley’s “Here Comes Santa Claus” played in the background. Not wanting to get stuck in the parade traffic, we found a back road to quickly return to our Airbnb downtown.
But, as soon as we arrived, I couldn’t resist—time to grab my Santa hat and join the crowd. The parade, a much-anticipated event for all ages (especially those 12 and under—or, let’s be honest, those of us 30+ who are still kids at heart), was simple but so much fun. The small-town charm of Loreto was on full display, with Christmas floats pulled by pickup trucks, free candy tossed to the crowds, and even Santa and the Grinch strolling side by side as if they were long-time friends.
While North America’s extravagant parades might steal the spotlight, this down-to-earth approach really showed how simplicity can still bring joy and spread holiday cheer.
Building a Gingerbread House as Siamese Twins
In addition to the parade, Loreto was decked out with charming Christmas decorations, including a few gingerbread-style houses set up for kids to explore. Naturally, I had to test them out (don’t judge, it was for research!).
The gingerbread houses reminded me of something Paul and I had talked about before our trip—our own family Christmas traditions, which included making gingerbread houses. So, to put our own twist on an old favourite, I bought an oversized second-hand t-shirt and a mini gingerbread house kit, setting the stage for our very own “Siamese Twins Gingerbread House Challenge.”
As you can imagine, the results were exactly as expected—A perfectly constructed house with zero flaws. Just kidding. We were lucky to have ours standing at all—but it was the best kind of holiday mess. The kitchen was a disaster, we were both hopped up on sugar, and we spent the entire afternoon laughing and making memories. I’d say that’s a pretty sweet way to celebrate Christmas!
Horseback Riding + Cheese Making
We booked a last-minute tour with Rancho Quest, which combined horseback riding with cheese-making. It sounded perfect, but when we arrived, we learned that our English-speaking guide… didn’t speak any English. My Spanish is limited, so that made for an interesting morning. Thankfully, our guide knew the Loreto countryside like the back of his hand, and the beautiful weather and stunning landscape made the experience unforgettable.
After the horseback ride, we moved on to the cheese-making portion of the tour. First, we had to gather fresh milk from the cows and goats—no easy task. The cows were cooperative, but the goats were a bit more mischievous, and we found ourselves chasing them around the pen.
This was my first time milking an animal, and let’s just say there was a steep learning curve. Just when we thought we’d milked all the animals dry, Pablo, the young helper, stepped in and demonstrated his skills like a pro—honestly, if milking cows was an Olympic sport, he’d be a serious contender.
Once the milk was collected, we moved on to the cheese-making process. There was a cheese starter set aside for us to work with, so we could get started right away. The first step was straining the liquids, and then came the critical step—pressing the cheese to remove more moisture. The method was surprisingly old-school—using a plank of wood with a cinder block on top to press the cheese. It was fascinating to see how effective these simple techniques are for producing fresh, delicious cheese.
La Paz, Mexico
As much as we enjoyed the relaxed pace of life in Loreto, we were eager to ring in the New Year with a bit more excitement in La Paz, the vibrant capital in Baja California Sur. With its stunning coastline offering endless snorkeling opportunities and a lively waterfront promenade filled with a bustling nightlife, it was the ideal spot to close out the year on a high note.
Snorkeling with Whale Sharks
As a longtime resident of Vancouver Island, I’m used to occasional encounters with whales, but never with sharks. Despite the confusing name, whale sharks are actually sharks. They are the world’s biggest fish, reaching over 40 feet long, yet they’re considered ‘gentle giants’ since they feed mainly on plankton and small fish. So, don’t worry, our snorkeling adventure has a happy ending.
Located in the Sea of Cortez just off the coast of La Paz, there’s a designated whale shark refuge, carefully monitored by the Mexican government. Only a limited number of tour boats are allowed into the area each day, so it feels like a special privilege to witness these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat.
We booked our tour with Tuna Tuna Tours after reading glowing reviews, and I was especially drawn to their small group size (no more than 10 people). The crew was incredibly professional, and they provided everything we needed: snacks, drinks, wetsuits (for the cooler waters), snorkeling gear, and even underwater photos and videos to capture the experience.
Snorkeling with whale sharks is an indescribable experience. While we’re no strangers to snorkeling, nothing compares to swimming alongside an animal so massive. Whale sharks have mouths that can open up to 5 feet wide, which definitely made me pause for a moment—imagining what might happen if the currents shifted, and I accidentally got sucked inside!
It was truly a once-in-a-lifetime encounter that both Paul and I will carry with us forever. There’s something humbling about sharing the ocean with such a giant, peaceful creature, and it made for the perfect way to end our year in La Paz, Mexico.
New Year’s Eve Celebration
We kicked off our New Year’s Eve with a relaxing sunset stroll along the waterfront, where the festive lights and decorations lit up the evening. The atmosphere was full of cheer, with parties happening all around us, but we decided to skip the celebratory drinks and just soak in the festive vibes.
On our way back to our Airbnb, we came across a local kid who was running on an abandoned tractor tire through a dimly lit basketball court. Intrigued, we decided to give it a go ourselves. Turns out, balancing on a spinning tire is a lot harder than it looks! We took turns pushing each other around inside the tire too, as if it was a human obstacle course. Miraculously, we made it through the night without any injuries—and had a good laugh in the process.
East Cape, Mexico
The East Cape of Baja California Sur is like stepping into another world. Here, you can drive for miles on deserted roads, with nothing but the vast desert stretching out on one side and the endless ocean on the other. It’s the perfect spot for anyone seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure. But be warned—some sections of the road are pure sand, and having a 4×4 vehicle is a must to avoid getting stuck in the wild, rugged terrain.
Roaming Cows
One thing you’ll quickly learn about the East Cape: cows roam freely—on the roads, in the desert, and even on the beaches. We read warnings about this before our trip, so we made sure to avoid driving at night. That said, on the final stretch of our drive, we encountered a cow who was leisurely crossing the road. We were driving slowly, so no harm was done. But, be ready to share the road with these slow-moving locals, who seem to have no hurry at all.
Café El Triunfo
On our way to the East Cape, we took a detour through El Triunfo, a small town that feels like something out of the past. Here, cowboys and cows wander through the cobblestone streets as if time has stood still.
For lunch, we stopped at Café El Triunfo, a charming spot with both indoor and outdoor seating. The restaurant offered a tempting menu, including delicious desserts and a full pizza selection. The outdoor patio was a true highlight—rock walls adorned with plants growing through the cracks, a private balcony for a more intimate dining experience, and the entire space surrounded by lush greenery. It was the perfect place to pause and take in the beauty of this unique, almost forgotten corner of Baja.
Beaches to explore
The East Cape is home to some of the most beautiful, untouched beaches in Baja California Sur. Take Los Barriles, for example, where cows can often be seen sunbathing on the sand (yes, you read that right). Cabo Pulmo National Park is world-renowned for its scuba diving, offering a chance to explore pristine coral reefs and vibrant marine life.
If you’re up for something a little more off the radar, we discovered a hidden beach just south of Boca del Salado. To reach it, we had to drive straight across the sand, which led us to a serene, isolated spot. We arrived just in time for sunset, and we were in awe of the colours spreading across the sky.
Final thoughts
Our trip to Baja California Sur, Mexico was more than just a vacation—the trip brought us closer together while immersing us in some of the most breathtaking and diverse landscapes Mexico has to offer. It struck the perfect balance between adventure, romance, and self-discovery.
As our first trip together, it ended up changing our lives forever. From the exhilarating highs to the inevitable lows, every moment felt like a chapter in a story we didn’t want to end. We even joked about not going back home, and in many ways, the trip reaffirmed our shared dream of exploring the world together. And so, we did just that. Our experience in Baja sparked a deeper desire to keep traveling—and that was just the beginning.
Check out our timeline to follow along on our journey.
