The Balkans: Part 3 – Kosovo
Originally, we planned to return to Albania for our final three weeks in the Balkans after North Macedonia. However, to escape the summer heat, we traveled 100 kilometers through the Shar Mountains to Kosovo.
As a landlocked country with shared borders with Serbia, North Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro, Kosovo has faced many challenges over the years. The only real thing we knew about the country was the Kosovo war in 1998, which received worldwide attention in the news during my childhood. Nearly a decade later, Kosovo officially declared its independence in 2008.
We were happy to find out that Kosovo is no longer a war zone — it was quite the opposite!
So, is Kosovo SAFE?
Absolutely! We felt safe everywhere we went, both day and night. Similar to other Balkan countries, such as Albania and North Macedonia, the people of Kosovo were friendly and eager to chat, often smiling and waving hello. As Canadians, we received a particularly warm welcome.
Our host, Shpend, mentioned that the only potential issue might be at the borders, where officers could refuse entry when crossing between Serbia and Kosovo. We opted not to test this ourselves.
After the war ended, most Serbians left, allowing Albanian refugees to return. Although some Serbians still don’t recognize Kosovo’s independence—something I noticed when I watched a rival soccer match and on social media—it’s now more of a political divide between Serbia and Kosovo.
Pristina & Area
Pristina, the capital of Kosovo, is centrally located, making it an ideal base for exploring the country. Whether you’re hiking in the rugged Shar Mountains to the south, visiting an authentic rural village, or enjoying the conveniences of city life, it’s a great spot to start your adventures.
Given the country’s ongoing recovery, it was fascinating to chat with locals about Kosovo’s history. I learned that many former Serbian buildings were recently demolished and replaced with modern homes, shopping malls, and other developments, all part of a fresh start.
A Glimpse of a New Future
We experienced this transformation firsthand when we visited Pristina Mall to catch a movie. Open for less than two years, it felt upscale and modern, featuring a full entertainment area upstairs with an indoor go-kart track, laser tag, arcade games, and escape rooms.
Our favorite part was the state-of-the-art movie theater, which even offers 4DX films. We watched the new movie Twisters, and if you’re a fan of the original from 1996, I highly recommend it. Another bonus is that most films in Kosovo are shown in their original language with Albanian subtitles, making it easy to enjoy English-language movies.
The film was screened using ScreenX technology, which offers a panoramic 270° view. It was an amazing experience—so immersive, it felt like we were part of the action! Usually, I’m just happy to have a recliner seat or when the floors aren’t sticky. Now, I want to return to Pristina for another movie!
Etno Fest: A Celebration of Albanian Culture
In comparison, we also took a trip to Kukaj, a small mountain village just 45 minutes from Pristina, to experience the Etno Fest, after a recommendation from our host. This nine-day festival, held in early August, attracts thousands of visitors eager to celebrate Albanian arts, culture, and cuisine, including traditional dance and music.
The ‘Etno village’ was organized into sections, allowing guests to explore different areas. In the demonstration area, several women were cooking flija, Kosovo’s national dish, over fire pits. Flija, recognized as a Slow Food, may use simple ingredients, but it requires a labor-intensive process, with multiple thin crepe-like layers cooked one by one and cream added after each layer. It’s definitely worth the effort! There were also booths set up to purchase food and drinks, including freshly made flija.
Throughout the evening, we enjoyed a variety of performances featuring dancers in traditional clothing, a creative comedy show, and spectacular musical acts, including a marching band, a talented violinist, and a string quartet accompanied by the exceptional opera singer, Adelina Paloja.
Novo Brdo
With a population of only 7,000, Novo Brdo is likely off the radar for most people. However, our accommodations at Stanet initially drew us to this serene spot for a peaceful escape in nature. The nearest bus station is a 30-minute drive away in Gjilan, making it difficult to access the area without a car.
Fortunately, our host, Shpend, and his family went above and beyond, offering to drive an hour out of their way (for free) to pick me up from Ferizaj, which significantly reduced my travel time on the bus. I truly really appreciated those long car rides with Shpend to and from the bus station. They not only gave me insights into local events and restaurants worth visiting, but also offered an invaluable opportunity to learn about Kosovo’s history from someone who lived through it.
While our experience in Novo Brdo was affected by external factors like the nearby weddings, we thoroughly enjoyed the enchanting community of holiday homes they’ve created. We are especially grateful for the warm hospitality extended by Shpend and his wonderful family.
Maple Restaurant
Kosovo may be known for flija, but Canada goes hand in hand with maple syrup. So, we were pleasantly surprised to discover an eatery called Maple Restaurant, just two minutes from our home in Novo Brdo, Kosovo.
Opened in May 2024, Maple Restaurant is the realization of a dream shared by two chefs—Isuf Salihu and his wife—each with 25 years of experience, and Abaz Feta, Isuf’s brother-in-law in Canada, who has always dreamed of opening a restaurant.
As soon as we walked in, we were struck by the stylish decor—we especially loved the stunning 10-seater dining table. And, the spacious indoor and outdoor areas easily accommodate larger groups. It has fine dining elements, like white table cloths and excellent professionalism from the staff, including our servers Greta and Brunen—yet it maintains a casual, relaxing atmosphere.
The menu offers a diverse range of options, featuring traditional Albanian dishes, Italian favourites (including pizza, of course!), soups, salads, and a daily breakfast menu. Since the menu is in Albanian, we appreciated Greta’s help in explaining the dishes in English. We visited three times, and our final meal was particularly special—featuring a fully loaded salad, fresh bread, roasted vegetables, and a mouthwatering tomahawk steak. Every dish was outstanding, and Brunen’s attentive service truly enhanced our experience.
Maple Restaurant is just the beginning of their journey. They are currently working on an ambitious 3+ year project called Maple Nova Village, which aims to create a community of modern, luxury homes nestled in nature. I can’t wait to visit again one day!
Gjilan
A Random Act of Kindness
Our accommodations in Novo Brdo had limited stores nearby, so we primarily used Gjilan for buying supplies. One day, as we prepared to ride home after grocery shopping, our motorcycle wouldn’t start. After countless failed attempts, we began to worry we’d be stranded—there isn’t exactly a BCAA nearby!
The melting ice cream in the bike pannier was the least of our concerns.
Fortunately, a passerby named Arian, who happened to be a motorcycle enthusiast, stopped to see if we needed help. While he couldn’t fix the bike himself, he called his friend, a motorcycle mechanic, and within 10 minutes, this stranger showed up to help us. After some trial and error, we managed to find a temporary solution until we could visit his friend’s dad’s motorcycle shop a couple of days later.
Until that point, Arian and his friend had refused to accept any money for their help. We thought we could offer compensation after our visit to the bike shop, but even after hours of work fixing the oil leak and the kickstand safety switch, they still refused any form of payment. Paul managed to give Arian 5 Euros to at least buy a beer.
The shop owner, who is also Arian’s friends’ dad, explained that he wanted this to be a teaching moment for his son, who will likely take over the shop one day.
Even after all of Kosovo’s hardships, it’s clear that the people here look out for one another—including foreigners. Never in a million years did I imagine we would encounter not just one, but several amazing humans who genuinely wanted to help us when we needed it most, with no strings attached. Paul and I are incredibly grateful for their kindness.
Prizren
Thanks to our friends in Gjilan, the motorcycle was ready for Paul’s two-hour ride southwest to Prizren, a picturesque city nestled at the edge of the Shar Mountains. While we had originally planned to hike the Via Ferrata “Panorama,” the poor weather forced us to alter our plans.
Luckily, Prizren is alive with energy, with its bustling riverside restaurants, pedestrian-only cobblestone streets, and the iconic 17th-century Stone Bridge overlooking the 16th-century Sinan Pasha Mosque. Our home at Duam Apartments was located at the end of a quiet dead end street, providing a cozy spot to relax on the patio when we weren’t out exploring.
During our short stay in Prizren, we had two main goals: to shorten our travel time back to Albania and to celebrate my 40th birthday. As our time in the Balkans was winding down, I wanted to celebrate with something light and fun. Of all things, I found a bowling alley, a movie theater, and a classy steak restaurant—all located in a shopping mall! How intriguing…
Bo Bowling
The first event of my birthday celebration was bowling. It had been years since I went bowling with limited options back home, so this was right up my alley (no pun intended).
With three locations in Kosovo, Bo Bowling is a modern 10 pin bowling alley, along with a restaurant and bar, and additional activities to extend the fun, like pool tables and karaoke. The owners are previous nightclub owners, so they set out to create a special one-of-a-kind place for entertainment. The cost was very reasonable, so we stayed to play ‘best out of three’.
Unbeknownst to me, I discovered a hidden ‘talent’—I can score strikes with a mean curve ball!—but on the flip side, I can miss every single bowling pin time after time. Despite a minor butt injury (who knew stretching was necessary before bowling?), it was a fabulous time.
Sarajeva Steak House
Before settling on a quick grab-and-go kind of meal before our movie, we stumbled upon Sarajeva Steak House, an unexpected gem in the mall, which in my experience, is typically reserved for fast food joints.
Our waiter, Bulum (pron. Boo-lum), instantly reminded us of a special waiter we had during our trip to Mexico. He made us feel like the most important customers and he was dedicated to providing exceptional service. We both ordered the Mignon steak with seasoned vegetables, which arrived sizzling on a piping hot cast-iron dish, beautifully topped with freshly ground salt and melted butter. The super soft bread for dipping was the perfect finishing touch. By the end, Paul and I were playfully fighting over who would get the last bites of bread—it was all so delicious!
Cineplexx Prizren
The final part of my birthday celebration was catching a movie. I had been eyeing Deadpool & Wolverine, starring the hilarious Ryan Reynolds, and was excited for a night of guaranteed laughs. The previous Deadpool films were a blast, and Ryan never fails to impress. The ticket prices were incredibly low—around €3-€4 each—for both 2D and 3D films, making it an excellent deal.
Fellas: Coffee and Kitchen
Fellas quickly became another favorite in Prizren, especially for breakfast. Like Italy, the Balkans often have limited breakfast options beyond pastries and coffee. However, their extensive menu offered everything from bar snacks to burgers, Italian dishes like pizza and pasta, salads, amazing Mexican fajitas, and four-ingredient omelettes—all for €3-€6! We ended up returning three times during our stay.
Final thoughts
As we wrapped up our time in Kosovo, we had much to be thankful for. This year marked the first time the people of Kosovo were allowed to travel freely, having lived as if confined as prisoners in their own country. Yet, they welcomed us with such warm hospitality. We enjoyed beautiful sights and delicious food, but it was our time with the locals that continues to be the driving force that inspires us to discover more of the world.
We enjoyed seeing the Balkan countries, although we’re looking forward to our third trip back to Sicily!
Travel Tips
Cash or Card?
- The currency in Kosovo is Euro (EUR). The exchange rate for your currency can easily be found online, or you can use a currency exchange app, like XE currency converter. It’s a handy tool for when you’re offline with easy access when you’re shopping or dining.
- Credit cards are commonly accepted in Kosovo especially in major cities, but it’s always a good idea to have cash on hand for smaller shops and markets.
- An international debit card, like Wise, is another option if you’re using ATMs frequently. The high transaction fees with traditional banks really add up.
Phone, Wifi & Translation App
As long-term travellers, some non-negotiables are a working phone and (hopefully) reliable internet. And, a language app to help communicate along the way.
E-Sims & Sim Cards
- Difference between an e-sim vs a sim card
- Check if your phone is e-sim compatible here
- Comparison of e-sim options available
- Paul buys his e-sims through Airalo. There are different price points and data plans available worldwide.
- My phone isn’t e-sim compatible, so I bought my sim card from a mobile shop when I arrived in town
Translation App
In Kosovo, people speak primarily Albanian. Although some of the locals know some English, we would’ve had so many lost connections without a translator.
- A language translation app, like Google translate, can make or break whether a trip goes smoothly. Be sure to choose the correct language and download for offline use to avoid using up your data.
Border Crossing Information
Canadians are limited to 90 days without a visa in Albania, so we popped over to North Macedonia and Kosovo to extend our stay in the Balkans. It was safe and easy to travel between Albania/Kosovo on either the bus or Paul’s motorcycle.
What to expect
By Bus:
When my bus arrived at the border crossing, an officer entered the bus to collect everyone’s passport. Shortly after, he returned the passports to the driver’s assistant. The driver continued on his way while the assistant returned the passports to the passengers.
By Motorcycle/Vehicle:
Required documents:
- Vehicle registration
- Insurance papers*
*Ask your insurance company to supply an official paper copy, not just printed at home. Paul paid for his online through email and printed it off, but he had problems with the border crossing between North Macedonia/Kosovo because they questioned if it was authentic. Eventually, they let him cross but not before issuing a warning!
