The Balkans: Part 2 – North Macedonia
Our trip to North Macedonia was like no other! Paul found a tiny village on the map, and our sense of adventure kicked into full gear.
Since we weren’t traveling light during our four-month stint in the Balkans, Paul rode his motorcycle while I traveled separately on a bus from Durres, Albania to Tetovo, North Macedonia.
My bus journey from Albania was fairly uneventful, in contrast to Paul’s motorcycle adventure through the mountains. He made friends with some lively ostriches, received a chocolate creamsicle from the border crossing officer on a scorching hot day, and even saw a donkey dragging a wagon with an oven down the road. You definitely know you’re not in Canada when…
Upon arrival in North Macedonia, our Airbnb host, Veli, kindly arranged pick up and drop off from the Tetovo bus station to Vejtse free of charge, making this side trip possible.
During our brief stay in North Macedonia, we explored two regions: Vejtse & Tetovo.
I’ve included my travel tips at the end to help you plan your trip.
Vejtse
Nestled at 1,250 meters above sea level, Vejtse is a quaint mountain village with a population of less than 900 people. Their one and only market has basic supplies, and the closest thing they have to a restaurant is the ‘bar’ above the market. It consists of simple tables and chairs, a few drink options (espresso, of course!), ice cream, and large windows for people watching.
While I watched outside the window as the residents went on with their day, it was common to see locals arriving on horseback to pick up their groceries. My ultimate dream would be to travel that way in Castelbuono, Sicily, some day.
Thanks to Paul’s enthusiasm for chess, he was quickly invited to play a few games with the friendly locals. He won 2 out of 3 games (though I suspect he didn’t want to embarrass them!).
Given the village’s small size where everyone knows each other, wandering the streets was always entertaining — young children would run up to say hello and practice their English (and then run away giggling), while several locals invited us to join them for an espresso.
While Vejtse may not be bursting with modern activities and restaurants, its stunning location in the mountains is perfect for nature lovers. Right outside our door, we enjoyed breathtaking views of the village and surrounding peaks.
After foraging in the mountains, we returned from our backyard hike with a couple bags of mini wild plums! If you, like me, enjoy solitude, there are plenty of hiking trails, horseback riding opportunities, and skiing in the winter.
Our host, Veli, grew up in the Shar Mountains, and is eager to share the beauty of the area with more visitors. Feel free to reach out if you’re interested in connecting with him. He is fluent in English (as well as Albanian), so he’d be a great tour guide.
If your visit coincides with a wedding in the village, you can expect a week-long celebration! Our host explained that pricey multi-day wedding celebrations are common due to the predominantly Muslim population and long-standing village traditions. Since we weren’t in ‘vacation mode’ and still had work to do, the continuous wedding music posed some challenges, but it was definitely a unique experience we’ll never forget.
After reading about wedding traditions around the world, I started to think about what Paul and I might expect for our own wedding one day — perhaps his German heritage would be celebrated with a woodcutting ceremony, or we could share our cheesy tendencies and salted nuts with our guests by embracing his Norwegian roots. Either way, I’m sure our special day would be filled with lots of laughter.
Tetovo
For everything Vejtse lacked, we were only a 30-minute drive from Tetovo, the second-largest city in North Macedonia. Once we arrived in the city, we had plenty of options for groceries, coffee shops and restaurants.
As a landlocked country with a rich history, North Macedonia is a mashup of cuisines and cultures influenced by Turkey, Serbia, Albania, and more. Tetovo serves as a great representation of this diversity.
Dating back to the 14th Century, Tetovo is a convenient base for exploring nature in the Shar Mountains or taking an hour’s drive south to the beautiful Mavrovo National Park. If the big city life is more your vibe, Skopje, the capital, is an easy bus ride or an hour’s drive east.
Olive Tree: Pizza and Food
After getting spoiled in Italy and quite possibly gaining 20 pounds just on pizza, our love of high-quality pizza never ends. We were determined to satisfy our cravings.
The Olive Tree restaurant is slightly outside of the main commercial area in Tetovo, allowing us to enjoy a peaceful dinner away from the downtown noise. We stopped in for our usual early dinner, and the service we received went above and beyond. The owner and his family greeted us with incredible hospitality, eager to share stories about life and our travels.
We tried the Turkish speciality, lahmacun (a type of flatbread with minced meat, vegetables and spices), along with a couple of full-sized pizzas, and everything was absolutely delicious! Our hearts and our stomachs were full after such a wonderful experience with the locals.
The Colourful Mosque
The Colourful Mosque, also known as ‘Pasha Djamija’, was built in 1495, and funded by two sisters, Hurshida and Mensure. It was later renovated in 1833 after a devastating fire resulting in its more colourful design.
What sets the Colourful Mosque in Tetovo apart are the intricate floral patterns, the absence of an external dome, and the frescoes found on both the interior and exterior walls. It’s believed that the yolks of 30,000 eggs were used to create the yellow colour found throughout the Mosque.
Entrance is free (donations are accepted) and visitors are welcome outside of salah (prayer), which occurs 5 times a day. While head coverings are not mandatory by tourists (some are available at the entrance for those wishing to show respect), shoes must be removed before entering.
There are separate prayer rooms on different levels for men and women. Women must pray behind or in a separate room than men to preserve their modesty and avoid any unwanted glances at their backsides. Paul wasn’t allowed to join me upstairs to see the balcony.
In the serene gardens, the fountains are used for wudu, a daily ritual of purification (or ablution) performed before prayer. Despite the mosque’s location right off of one of the main roads, I was filled with a sense of calm the moment we entered the property. I could’ve easily spent the afternoon lounging in this tranquil place.
Remote work space
Mulliri i Vjetër, a popular coffee chain throughout the Balkans, has a beautiful location just down the road from the Colourful Mosque. Most locations have a space set up for remote work with separate power outlets, and they never hassled us if we stayed a while to work.
It has a modern interior and a fantastic outdoor patio next to the river. They offer a variety of drinks, including specialty coffees and smoothies, along with tasty baked goods for a perfect afternoon pick-me-up. We loved visiting their various locations throughout the Balkans.
Kamenjane Waterfall Trail
A particularly fun day trip in North Macedonia was to Kamenjane Waterfall Trail, located less than 20 minutes south of Tetovo. Admission is free, with a few donation boxes for trail maintenance.
About a kilometer before the main trailhead, we met a traditionally dressed North Macedonian woman who invited us to see her old stone flour watermill where she sold bags of flour and special ‘holy water’ collected daily from the stream below the mill.
Aside from a nice couple we had lunch with at the beginning of the hike, we had the forest to ourselves for hours.
The trail is lined with streams and mini waterfalls until you reach the deeper forest, where the real show stoppers await. The 8 marked waterfalls ranged in height from 5 meters to 12 meters. At the 7th waterfall, the tallest of them all, there’s a lovely seating and picnic area where you can take a break and soak in the stunning views.
It’s clear that great care was taken to preserve the park’s natural beauty, with rustic picnic tables, ladders, and hand railings crafted from local trees. Some ladders lead to an upper level, offering a bird’s eye view of the forest canopy and the nearby town. After spending hours in such a peaceful environment surrounded by water, I left feeling energized.
Final Thoughts
My ultimate ‘happy place’ is anywhere near water, while Paul finds comfort getting lost in the mountains. We checked both of them off of our list, even in a landlocked country.
Our visit to North Macedonia came to an end WAY too quickly! As I boarded the bus, I couldn’t help but think, “Wait! I need more time here”. The silver lining is that we’re heading to a country that has wrongfully carried a negative reputation. We’re eager to slash some myths in Kosovo!
Check out our timeline on our About page to see our current status. Who knows? Maybe our paths will cross and we can meet up for a coffee!
Travel Tips
Canadians are limited to 90 days without a visa in Albania, so we popped over to North Macedonia to extend our stay in the Balkans.
It was easy and safe to travel between Albania/North Macedonia on either the bus or Paul's motorcycle.
Bus:
What to expect:
When my bus arrived at the border crossing, an officer entered the bus to collect everyone's passport. Shortly after, he returned the passports to the driver's assistant. The driver continued on his way while the assistant returned the passports to the passengers.
Motorcycle/Vehicle:
Required documents:
- Registration
- Insurance papers
Paul's favourite border crossing was the 'Blato' North Macedonia crossing near Debar where the border official surprised him with a chocolate creamsicle!
*NOTE*
Ask your insurance company to supply an official paper copy, not just printed at home. Paul paid for his online through email and printed it off, but he had problems with the border crossing between North Macedonia/Kosovo. Eventually, they let him cross but not before issuing a warning!
- The currency in North Macedonia is Macedonian Denar (MKD). The exchange rate for your currency can easily be found online, or you can use a currency exchange app, like XE currency converter. It's a handy tool for when you're offline with easy access when you're shopping or dining.
- Credit cards are commonly accepted in North Macedonia especially in major cities, but it's always a good idea to have cash on hand for smaller shops and markets. **In a bind, some places may accept the equivalent in Euros.
As long-term travellers, some non-negotiables are a working phone and (hopefully) reliable internet. And, some language apps to help you communicate along the way.
Paul has been buying his e-sims through Airalo for the past year. It’s typically a good price with different price points and data plans available worldwide.
- Here’s a comparison of the e-sim options available and a breakdown of the differences between an e-sim vs a sim card
My phone isn’t e-sim compatible, so I bought a sim card when we arrived in Tetovo at a mobile shop. You can check if your phone is e-sim compatible here.
A language translation app, like Google translate, can make or break whether a trip goes smoothly. Be sure to choose the correct language and download for offline use to avoid using up your data.
- Although some of the younger generations know some English, we would've had so many lost connections with the locals without a translator.
